VetiGraph UK has teamed up with Claudette Joseph to collaborate on a TR pattern cutting project. TR pattern cutting means Transformational Reconstruction, this is a form of origami pattern cutting which translates into immediate and intuitive 3D creations, in opposition to the more conventional way of drafting.
We have admired Claudette’s work and the fantastic shapes she has been able to achieve in her designs. In our interview with Claudette, we find out about how she constructs such interesting shapes in her pattern cutting work.
Claudette has designed and pattern cut a TR inspired blouse. We have digitised, graded, and generated A4 and A0 PDF nest of patterns available to download for free from our website. We decided not to leave the project there, please read all about Claudette and find out what TR pattern cutting is in our interview below.
How did you get into the industry?
-After studying at London College of Fashion and obtaining my degree at Colchester Institute, I always knew that I wanted to work for myself. So, a month after I graduated, I found myself a small studio space in a co-op and went from there. I had done placements with several designers whilst studying at LCF and worked as a freelance designer for Arcadia (formally Burton Group) for their ‘Principles’ line for two years.
Can you briefly explain TR Pattern Cutting?
-TR pattern cutting means Transformational Reconstruction which is an origami pattern cutting method for clothing which gives the designer a more intuitive and exciting creative process. You can achieve more creative style lines and 3D elements to a garment using this method than from doing flat 2D pattern cutting.
How were you trained in TR Pattern cutting?
-Whilst looking for an inspiration to a new collection, I had in my mind origami and found a video demonstrating the TR method and was completely hooked. I found every video, interview, and online process about it and spent the entire weekend watching them. I knew that it wouldn’t be enough just watching the small clips, so I contacted the creator of TR Shingo Sato and asked when his next class or course was and he said, ‘in two weeks in Milan!’, So I booked my ticket and my space and off I went….it was the absolute best week ever so I booked the next course for 5 months later and went on my birthday.
What are your teaching methods with TR Pattern Cutting
-The method itself is very hands on as you use it in conjunction with the flat pattern and modelling on the stand. In some techniques you draw directly onto the calico so can see how the style lines will look. For other methods, the more origami techniques it is a case of cutting and folding paper and that is the pattern piece you use on your fabric. No two designers’ final piece is the same which is phenomenal.
How have you applied TR Pattern Cutting to your own womenswear range?
– With the clientele I have and my design aesthetic, I tend to use the methods that allow me to add interest to small areas such as collars, pockets etc. But I also love the elimination of standard dart lines, TR gives me so much scope to create more complicated style lines that make great talking points as to how I have achieved that style.
What is the plan for the future?
– My plans are to create a line of commercial sewing patterns which incorporates small areas of TR pattern cutting, so that people can try their hand at TR pattern cutting. The look is contemporary and stylish with a twist. I will also be setting up more classes in all levels of pattern cutting including TR so that more designers or machinists that are interested can see and experience the techniques themselves.
A4 PDF Free Downloadable Pattern.
A0 PDF Free Downloadable Pattern.